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The Chemist and the Counselor

A year of adventures in Korea

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Recent Posts

  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan October 31, 2021
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan October 17, 2021
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Hahoe Folk Village September 26, 2021
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Songnisan National Park September 12, 2021
  • Finding a New Normal: What We Miss Most about Korea September 5, 2021
  • Returning to “Normal”: Hitting the Easy Button on Stateside Life August 29, 2021
  • A Chemical Mystery: Navigating the Unpredictable Course of Research August 22, 2021
  • COVID travel,  The Counselor

    What’s happening with COVID-19 in South Korea? Buckle up if you really want to know.

    August 30, 2020 / 6 Comments

    We pause our fun travel stories for a moment to let you know about COVID concerns here. When we arrived in South Korea (ROK) on July 31, the count of new COVID cases for the day was 36. On August 14, our first day out of quarantine, that number was 103. On August 27, it was 441, the highest total since the pandemic spiked here in March. Cases have spread to all 17 regions of the ROK rather than being localized to one area, which was the case with previous outbreaks. Despite this all starting as we finished quarantine, we’re pretty sure we didn’t cause the new outbreak, but here…

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    mledare

    You May Also Like

    Where in the World is Yongsan-gu?

    August 13, 2020

    Good Grief! What’s so Shocking about Culture Shock?

    January 31, 2021

    Old Korea: Buddhist Temple Stay at Gyeongju

    May 9, 2021
  • COVID travel,  Sites in Seoul,  The Chemist

    For better AND for worse: What’s the price of peace in Ihwa Mural Village?

    August 27, 2020 / 2 Comments

    One of my favorite sites in Seoul is Ihwa Mural Village. This neighborhood of tiny steep streets adjacent to Naksan Park is decorated with lots of amusing and imaginative street art. Add to that the area’s 180 degree views of the city, and you have a tourist attraction that I will run to see. With Seoul being entirely devoid of short-term visitors, we had the place basically to ourselves. We wound our way up the tiny streets and took our time posing for silly photos. In 2010 a Korean reality-TV show was filmed in the village and created the “wings mural.” It and subsequent versions of it have attracted many…

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    Peter Graham

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    Korea Winter Trekking in a Nutshell: Outside Seoul

    April 25, 2021

    A Private Tour Of Changdeokgung Palace and VIP Dining

    September 6, 2020

    Jeju Island: Cliffs and Camellias on Christmas Day

    March 7, 2021
  • Food,  Nightlife,  Sites in Seoul,  The Counselor

    How to Have a Cheap Date Night: Street Food for the Win!

    August 24, 2020 / 4 Comments

    My favorite thing in basically every city is to see it at night. The colors and the lights make everything so vivid, and I love the nighttime energy. Seoul’s neon vibe and large shopping districts lend themselves to evening strolls and people-watching. Added bonus: avoid the scorching sun and terrible August humidity! Over a couple of nights, we enjoyed an evening stroll to one of Seoul’s largest shopping districts, enjoyed several of Seoul’s many riverside parks, and most importantly – found some famous street food. As soon as we saw Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) during the day, we knew we wanted to see it at night. We were not disappointed!…

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    mledare

    You May Also Like

    Noryangjin Fish Market: This Post May Not Be Suitable For Vegetarians

    September 16, 2020

    Is there anybody out there? Traveling through quiet Seoul.

    August 20, 2020

    Some Inwangsan evening, you may climb a mountain

    October 14, 2020
  • COVID travel,  Food,  Sites in Seoul,  The Counselor

    Seoul from the middle ages to the space age

    August 22, 2020 / 2 Comments

    On August 15, Gwanghwamun Square was the site of a political rally estimated to have included 20,000 participants or more. Discussing all the politics connected to that event would take a separate post, so suffice it to say it was a very controversial gathering, particularly in the context of coronavirus concerns. Any gathering of over 100 people currently is banned in Seoul and the surrounding areas, so the city seems to have been very unhappy about the rally. By Monday – August 17 – Gwanghwamun was back to being deserted, and all we saw were some of the remnants of Saturday’s political action. We walked through the (extremely large) square…

    read more
    mledare

    You May Also Like

    Korea Winter Trekking in a Nutshell: Outside Seoul

    April 25, 2021

    Top 10 Most Surprising Things About South Korea

    October 24, 2020

    Trail Challenges at Seoraksan National Park

    December 6, 2020
  • Food,  Sites in Seoul,  The Counselor

    Is there anybody out there? Traveling through quiet Seoul.

    August 20, 2020 / Comments Off on Is there anybody out there? Traveling through quiet Seoul.

    Liberation Day, also called Gwangbokjeol in South Korea, literally means ‘Restoration of Light’ day. It is celebrated each year on August 15 and commemorates the Allied Forces’ prevailing at the end of WW II, which subsequently liberated the Korean peninsula from decades of Japanese occupation. It is the only Korean public holiday celebrated by both South and North Korea. Ordinarily, we might have looked for some public celebrations over the weekend, but with COVID circumstances being what they are, it seemed like the city of Seoul was really discouraging any event that might draw a big crowd. There was a huge political rally downtown despite the warnings, but we stayed…

    read more
    mledare

    You May Also Like

    Where in the World is Yongsan-gu?

    August 13, 2020

    Noryangjin Fish Market: This Post May Not Be Suitable For Vegetarians

    September 16, 2020

    Anmyeondo Island: Trekking on the Road of Sunset

    October 7, 2020
  • Sites in Seoul,  The Counselor

    How to spend your first ‘real’ weekend in Seoul

    August 18, 2020 / 2 Comments

    If you saw Peter’s recent Facebook post, you already know we made the most of our first days out of quarantine. After 15 days of feeling like our muscles were wasting away from disuse, we proceeded to walk about 35 miles over Friday-Monday. Our legs no longer feel disused! Friday We were released from quarantine on Friday at noon and decided we didn’t want to take any transit or go inside at all. We just wanted to walk! This was a good opportunity to explore Itaewon, the international neighborhood next door. We can walk there in about 15 minutes from our apartment. Itaewon is known for its great diversity, making…

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    mledare

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    Some Inwangsan evening, you may climb a mountain

    October 14, 2020

    Awesome Autumn Adventures in Bukhansan National Park

    November 14, 2020

    A Rainbow of Colors in Seoul’s “Green” Spaces

    November 20, 2020
  • COVID travel,  Food,  The Counselor

    Where in the World is Yongsan-gu?

    August 13, 2020 / 3 Comments

    South Korea, you say? Quarantine for two weeks, you say? In a very small apartment, you say? We say – why not? We have felt really lucky that were are able to quarantine in our Airbnb apartment. It was a little tricky getting all our luggage up the narrow stairs when we arrived from the airport, but we’re happy for the view of the street that a small second-floor patio has given us. Plus, there have been flooding monsoon rains falling basically since we arrived, so at least we have no flood concerns on the second floor! We have a living area, two small bedrooms, and a galley kitchen that…

    read more
    mledare

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    Seoul from the middle ages to the space age

    August 22, 2020

    What’s happening with COVID-19 in South Korea? Buckle up if you really want to know.

    August 30, 2020

    What is Seollal? How We Spent Our Lunar New Year

    April 11, 2021
  • COVID travel,  Daily Life,  The Chemist

    Amazing! Two Phones in One!

    August 12, 2020 / 3 Comments

    It’s a T-Mobile phone with a U.S. phone number! It’s a KT phone with a Korean phone number! Stop! You’re both right! It’s two, two, two phones in one! We knew that when we landed in Seoul we needed cell phones with a data plan that worked in Korea, so we could install the required COVID monitoring app at the airport. Luckily we already had T-Mobile (Magenta plan), which by default includes unlimited data (2G) and texting in most international countries including South Korea. Calls are $0.25/min, but there are easy ways for us to avoid this charge (see below). It was quite nice to turn the phone on once…

    read more
    Peter Graham

    You May Also Like

    Old Korea: Buddhist Temple Stay at Gyeongju

    May 9, 2021

    Good Grief! What’s so Shocking about Culture Shock?

    January 31, 2021

    Jeju Island: Christmas Eve on the South Coast

    February 28, 2021
  • The Counselor

    Getting tired of 2020? 투표하다! (VOTE!)

    August 11, 2020 / 2 Comments

    Many of you have expressed concern about whether Peter and I will be voting absentee this November. The short answer – yes! Of course, as we quickly have discovered, few enterprises are simple when trying to accomplish them from overseas quarantine. While possible to request a ballot, it was not quite as easy as I expected. It required perseverance and a little technical skill. Peter had easily requested an absentee ballot in the U.S. before we left for Korea, but then we discovered that there is a different procedure for having a ballot sent to an overseas address. Lots of googling for information led me to two helpful resources: The…

    read more
    mledare

    You May Also Like

    Finding a New Normal: What We Miss Most about Korea

    September 5, 2021

    How to Pack for Korea: The Wins and the Regrets

    June 27, 2021

    Mountain Parks Blooming: Places to See in Jeollabuk-do (Part Two)

    June 20, 2021
  • Daily Life,  Food,  The Chemist

    Food Delivery in Quarantine: The Devil is in the Details

    August 9, 2020 / Comments Off on Food Delivery in Quarantine: The Devil is in the Details

    Being confined to our small apartment in Seoul has presented a number of challenges. Not surprisingly, our primary concern before arriving was making sure we would have enough food to eat. Thus, before we arrived, we had done some online research and had a plan in place. Our Airbnb host Han kindly offered to stock our kitchen with some essentials to get us through the first couple of days. We also planned to use the Shuttle app (similar to GrubHub) for delivery from area restaurants and Gmarket.com for groceries. Upon our arrival at the apartment we found that Han indeed left us the staples that we requested as well as…

    read more
    Peter Graham

    You May Also Like

    A Chemical Mystery: Navigating the Unpredictable Course of Research

    August 22, 2021

    How to Pack for Korea: The Wins and the Regrets

    June 27, 2021

    Korea Winter Trekking in a Nutshell: Seoul

    April 18, 2021
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Recent Posts

  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Hahoe Folk Village
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Songnisan National Park
  • Finding a New Normal: What We Miss Most about Korea

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