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The Chemist and the Counselor

A year of adventures in Korea

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Recent Posts

  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan October 31, 2021
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan October 17, 2021
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Hahoe Folk Village September 26, 2021
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Songnisan National Park September 12, 2021
  • Finding a New Normal: What We Miss Most about Korea September 5, 2021
  • Returning to “Normal”: Hitting the Easy Button on Stateside Life August 29, 2021
  • A Chemical Mystery: Navigating the Unpredictable Course of Research August 22, 2021
  • COVID travel,  Sites in Seoul,  The Counselor

    What is Chuseok? How We Spent Our Autumn Holiday

    October 31, 2020 / 2 Comments

    Chuseok (추석), which literally translates to “Autumn Eve,” is often described as Korea’s Thanksgiving holiday. It is also called Hangawi (한가위), “the great middle of autumn.” A three-day holiday celebrated in September or October each year according to the lunar calendar, Chuseok is one of the two most important holidays of the year and is celebrated in both North and South Korea. (Lunar New Year is the other large, family holiday.) This year, the holiday was a little different as the government raised the level of social distancing guidelines, encouraging Koreans to stay home rather than risk spreading COVID-19 by visiting family around the country. Important Chuseok Traditions Like Thanksgiving,…

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    mledare

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    Anmyeondo Island: Trekking on the Road of Sunset

    October 7, 2020

    The Ultimate Day Tourist: Gapyeong Rail Park, Nami Island, and The Garden of Morning Calm

    January 10, 2021

    Seoraksan National Park: Best Adventures for the Whole Family

    December 3, 2020
  • COVID travel,  Daily Life,  The Counselor

    Top 10 Most Surprising Things About South Korea

    October 24, 2020 / Comments Off on Top 10 Most Surprising Things About South Korea

    Just as with any major life event, we approached our Seoul adventure with a certain set of expectations. Because we are planners, we did a lot of research about what to expect and how to acclimate to life here. We are also seasoned travelers and were prepared to experience those things you can’t plan for. We learned when we lived in Canada that even moving to a neighboring country comes with its share of complications. Indeed, every time we have traveled overseas something unexpected has happened. Plan as much as you like, but there will always be surprises! Here are some of the things – both pleasant and unpleasant –…

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    mledare

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    The Ultimate Day Tourist: Gapyeong Rail Park, Nami Island, and The Garden of Morning Calm

    January 10, 2021

    For better AND for worse: What’s the price of peace in Ihwa Mural Village?

    August 27, 2020

    Jeju Island: The Northeast Coast and the Diving Women

    February 21, 2021
  • The Counselor,  Travel around Korea

    Paju Imjingak Peace Gondola, the DMZ, and a New Friend

    October 17, 2020 / 4 Comments

    Did you know that the Korean War has never officially ended? Before the onset of a global pandemic changed everything, many people who heard us talk about the possibility of going to South Korea inevitably asked, “Aren’t you scared of North Korea?” While we haven’t felt afraid, it is an unsettling feeling to live in a country that has existed in an uneasy armistice with its sister nation to the north for 70 years. Currently, the closest you can safely get to North Korea is to visit the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), and the closest such point to us is at Imjingak, about 50km north of Seoul. We were able…

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    mledare

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    Returning to “Normal”: Hitting the Easy Button on Stateside Life

    August 29, 2021

    The Ultimate Day Tourist: Gapyeong Rail Park, Nami Island, and The Garden of Morning Calm

    January 10, 2021

    Korea Winter Trekking in a Nutshell: Seoul

    April 18, 2021
  • Food,  Sites in Seoul,  The Chemist

    Some Inwangsan evening, you may climb a mountain

    October 14, 2020 / 4 Comments

    Some Inwangsan evening, you may climb a mountain, you may climb a mountain to a panoramic view. The Seoul City wall has shown up in several of our past posts (Baegak Mountain Hike, Heunginjimun Gate in Dongdaemun, Naksan Park). The wall’s length means we have explored it section by section on several occasions.  The wall is one of my favorite features of Seoul. The juxtaposition of its ancient stones against the steel and glass high-rises exemplifies Seoul. Hanyangdoseong, the ancient Seoul city wall, was originally built in 1396 during the reign of the first Joseon monarch, shortly after the capital was established in Seoul. Currently, about 70% of the original…

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    Peter Graham

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    Anmyeondo Island: Trekking on the Road of Sunset

    October 7, 2020

    The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan

    October 17, 2021

    The Great Wall of… South Korea? Namhansanseong Fortress

    February 7, 2021
  • COVID travel,  The Counselor,  Travel around Korea

    Anmyeondo Island: A Walk Under the Trees

    October 11, 2020 / 2 Comments

    For our first day in Anmyeondo, we explored the island’s beautiful beaches. On the second day, we wandered in some of its quiet green spaces. I was a little concerned that we had left almost a whole day to seeing the Anmyeondo Island Recreational Forest, as I couldn’t find much about it when researching before this trip. As far as I knew, it was going to be really lame and not worth seeing. This concern intensified when we couldn’t get a bus or a taxi from the hotel on Sunday morning and walked a very sunny 45 minutes to get there, partly along the side of a highway. Well, I…

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    mledare

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    Old Korea: Buddhist Temple Stay at Gyeongju

    May 9, 2021

    Quarantine: It’s day 8 of 15, but who’s counting?

    August 7, 2020

    Jeju Island: Christmas Eve on the South Coast

    February 28, 2021
  • COVID travel,  Food,  The Counselor,  Travel around Korea

    Anmyeondo Island: Trekking on the Road of Sunset

    October 7, 2020 / Comments Off on Anmyeondo Island: Trekking on the Road of Sunset

    Exploring Seoul has nearly endless possibilities and will keep us occupied for a long time to come. However, we are also ready to spread our wings a little more and venture to some sites outside of the city. Our first trip outside of Seoul was a weekend visit to Anmyeondo Island on South Korea’s west coast, south of Seoul in Chungcheongnam-do Province. I found very little information about traveling to and within Anmyeondo, so this whole trip was a bit of a mystery all the way through. Our post is in two parts because given the dearth of online information about visiting the area, I am going to give more…

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    mledare

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    For better AND for worse: What’s the price of peace in Ihwa Mural Village?

    August 27, 2020

    What is Chuseok? How We Spent Our Autumn Holiday

    October 31, 2020

    Hate is a Virus: A Foreigner’s Perspective on the Pandemic in South Korea

    March 21, 2021
  • Sites in Seoul,  The Counselor

    Walking to School Uphill Both Ways: Welcome to Gwanaksan

    October 3, 2020 / Comments Off on Walking to School Uphill Both Ways: Welcome to Gwanaksan

    If you’re looking for a campus to keep you fit while you walk to classes, Seoul National University is the place for you! Completed in 1975, the Gwanak Main Campus is built at the base of Gwanak Mountain (Gwanaksan), and as such includes a dizzying number of hills and stairs. The university is so integrated with the mountain that we finished this hike by staggering right onto campus – after viewing it from above at the summit. In order to end up at the university, we started our hike on the other side of the mountain, in the city of Gwacheon (just south of Seoul). Since it was such a…

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    mledare

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    Korea Winter Trekking in a Nutshell: Seoul

    April 18, 2021

    High Drama at Lotte World Tower: Fear, Vanity, and Greed

    September 2, 2020

    How to Have a Cheap Date Night: Street Food for the Win!

    August 24, 2020

Recent Posts

  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Hahoe Folk Village
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Songnisan National Park
  • Finding a New Normal: What We Miss Most about Korea

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  • Nancy on The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan – The Chemist and the Counselor on The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan
  • Rose on The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan – The Chemist and the Counselor on The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Hahoe Folk Village
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Songnisan National Park – The Chemist and the Counselor on The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Hahoe Folk Village

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