Have Yourself a Merry, Distanced Christmas!

Learning how another culture celebrates a big holiday such as Christmas is one of the most exciting and also one of the more challenging elements of living in a different country. Somehow, in years past the chemist and I always have managed to be with at least most of our families at Christmas. Ah, memories of Christmases pre-social distancing!

This year, the presence of COVID and the need to quarantine when traveling made it impossible to consider returning to the U.S. for the holidays. Not to mention, even if we were in the U.S. we would be staying put at home, as we know many of you are doing. We are aware this season often is difficult for many, and this year that is magnified. If you’re having some trouble coping with Christmas, know that you are not alone in your struggle. We may not all be in the same boat, but the storm is real.

South Korea has entered a higher phase of social distancing restrictions in an effort to prevent the further spread of the coronavirus. As a result, many of the Christmas social activities we expected to enjoy in December were cancelled. This combination has presented both challenges and opportunities as we try to make the best of spending Christmas away from home this year. We have been on many walks seeking holiday displays to bring a little Christmas cheer!

For Christians, Christmas is of course a religious holiday. However, many would agree that it also has become a secular and commercial holiday around the world. In a 2015 survey, 56% of South Koreans reported having no particular religion. Of the 44% who espoused following a religion, 45% were Protestant, 35% Buddhist, and 18% Catholic (2% reported “other”). Put another way, less than 1/3 of South Korea’s population is Christian. So how does this culture celebrate Christmas?

We have noted Christmas here mainly as a commercial holiday. It is not a top holiday of cultural importance, that distinction going to the harvest festival Chuseok and the Lunar New Year, Seollal. If we want to see lights and decorations in Seoul, we go to a mall or other shopping district. One of the most impressive displays is at Lotte World Mall at the Lotte World Tower in Jamsil (below). I spent a lovely girls’ night exploring there.

Another large shopping district, Myeongdong, also provides plenty of opportunities for getting a Christmas light “fix.” And if you want to shop, you’re in luck. These multi-floor department stores are for you! Lots of stores and cafes have been playing Christmas music for weeks, though often we have heard the same few songs played over and over. “All I Want for Christmas is You” seems to play on an endless loop in Seoul!

Myeongdong Cathedral is the church for the Archdiocese of Seoul and was the first Catholic church in Korea, its construction completed in 1898. The Cathedral certainly is having special services during Advent, but because of coronavirus concerns Masses currently are open only to members and are limited to 15 attendees at a time. Of course, the services also are streamed online for any who prefer to attend virtually.

One of my favorite elements of the Cathedral’s holiday decorations is its crèche. In keeping with Catholic tradition, early in Advent the nativity scene is mostly empty, its characters set outside of the stable. However, this year the Myeongdong Cathedral has represented the figures of healthcare workers inside its crèche. In a country where churches have been at the center of several coronavirus outbreaks after failure to follow recommended guidelines, this seems like an especially important gesture.

Our little apartment boasts some Christmas spirit in the form of a tree I am proud to say cost 5,000 KRW, about $4.50 USD. Never say we aren’t thrifty! Our tradition is to buy an ornament (or something we can use as an ornament) in each place we visit when traveling, so we were able to add some Korean flair to this tree. We have reprentations of traditional Korean clothing (hanbok), and punggyeong, a variety of bell traditionally hung from the exterior corners of Korean Buddhist temples.

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These cheerful little decorations have helped ease the challenge of being away from home for Christmas this year. In addition, though there are no larger parties we have been able to have smaller holiday celebrations with friends here. Last week we had mulled wine to-go with fellow hikers, and a Christmas lunch and sunset walk up Namsan with friends. I especially love that a Malaysian friend gave us little mince pies, a UK specialty, to enjoy for Christmas in South Korea! All the little kindnesses and good attitudes really do add up and have lifted our spirits.

We are so touched and grateful to have received Christmas cards here from several friends in the U.S., which really makes our day. And a special shout-out to my mom, who sent an awesome Christmas care package, complete with her homemade fudge! These tastes of home combined with lovely friends in Seoul have eased this season for us.

If COVID allows, we will be traveling outside of Seoul for Christmas (another of our holiday coping strategies!). Hopefully, we’ll get to tell you all about those travels soon. In the meantime, Merry Christmas and happy holidays to all of you! We wish you safety and health in this holiday season.

You can see more of Seoul at Christmas here.