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The Chemist and the Counselor

A year of adventures in Korea

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Recent Posts

  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan October 31, 2021
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan October 17, 2021
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Hahoe Folk Village September 26, 2021
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Songnisan National Park September 12, 2021
  • Finding a New Normal: What We Miss Most about Korea September 5, 2021
  • Returning to “Normal”: Hitting the Easy Button on Stateside Life August 29, 2021
  • A Chemical Mystery: Navigating the Unpredictable Course of Research August 22, 2021
  • Sites in Seoul,  The Chemist

    High Drama at Lotte World Tower: Fear, Vanity, and Greed

    September 2, 2020 / 4 Comments

    Walking out on to the Sky Deck at Lotte World Tower was terrifying. I did it, but I did not look down. Our recent visit to the tower took us to dizzying heights, but also led us to explore how and why the tower was built and the soap-opera story of the Lotte tycoon and his family. Lotte (low-tay) World Tower is currently the world’s fifth tallest building. It stretches 556 meters (1823 feet) into the air and is the tallest building on the Korean peninsula. By comparison, its roof line is a bit higher than the pinnacle of One World Trade Center in NYC. Compared to other super-tall buildings,…

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    Peter Graham

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    For better AND for worse: What’s the price of peace in Ihwa Mural Village?

    August 27, 2020

    Is there anybody out there? Traveling through quiet Seoul.

    August 20, 2020

    Walking to School Uphill Both Ways: Welcome to Gwanaksan

    October 3, 2020
  • Food,  Sites in Seoul,  The Counselor

    Is there anybody out there? Traveling through quiet Seoul.

    August 20, 2020 / Comments Off on Is there anybody out there? Traveling through quiet Seoul.

    Liberation Day, also called Gwangbokjeol in South Korea, literally means ‘Restoration of Light’ day. It is celebrated each year on August 15 and commemorates the Allied Forces’ prevailing at the end of WW II, which subsequently liberated the Korean peninsula from decades of Japanese occupation. It is the only Korean public holiday celebrated by both South and North Korea. Ordinarily, we might have looked for some public celebrations over the weekend, but with COVID circumstances being what they are, it seemed like the city of Seoul was really discouraging any event that might draw a big crowd. There was a huge political rally downtown despite the warnings, but we stayed…

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    mledare

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    A Private Tour Of Changdeokgung Palace and VIP Dining

    September 6, 2020

    Sokcho and Abai Village: A Taste of North Korea

    November 27, 2020

    The Great Wall of… South Korea? Namhansanseong Fortress

    February 7, 2021
  • Sites in Seoul,  The Counselor

    How to spend your first ‘real’ weekend in Seoul

    August 18, 2020 / 2 Comments

    If you saw Peter’s recent Facebook post, you already know we made the most of our first days out of quarantine. After 15 days of feeling like our muscles were wasting away from disuse, we proceeded to walk about 35 miles over Friday-Monday. Our legs no longer feel disused! Friday We were released from quarantine on Friday at noon and decided we didn’t want to take any transit or go inside at all. We just wanted to walk! This was a good opportunity to explore Itaewon, the international neighborhood next door. We can walk there in about 15 minutes from our apartment. Itaewon is known for its great diversity, making…

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    mledare

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    A Rainbow of Colors in Seoul’s “Green” Spaces

    November 20, 2020

    Walking to School Uphill Both Ways: Welcome to Gwanaksan

    October 3, 2020

    For better AND for worse: What’s the price of peace in Ihwa Mural Village?

    August 27, 2020
  • COVID travel,  Food,  The Counselor

    Where in the World is Yongsan-gu?

    August 13, 2020 / 3 Comments

    South Korea, you say? Quarantine for two weeks, you say? In a very small apartment, you say? We say – why not? We have felt really lucky that were are able to quarantine in our Airbnb apartment. It was a little tricky getting all our luggage up the narrow stairs when we arrived from the airport, but we’re happy for the view of the street that a small second-floor patio has given us. Plus, there have been flooding monsoon rains falling basically since we arrived, so at least we have no flood concerns on the second floor! We have a living area, two small bedrooms, and a galley kitchen that…

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    mledare

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    Anmyeondo Island: Trekking on the Road of Sunset

    October 7, 2020

    Adventure #2: How we traveled 6,700 miles for COVID tests (Part 2)

    August 5, 2020

    Korea Winter Trekking in a Nutshell: Outside Seoul

    April 25, 2021
  • Daily Life,  Food,  The Chemist

    Food Delivery in Quarantine: The Devil is in the Details

    August 9, 2020 / Comments Off on Food Delivery in Quarantine: The Devil is in the Details

    Being confined to our small apartment in Seoul has presented a number of challenges. Not surprisingly, our primary concern before arriving was making sure we would have enough food to eat. Thus, before we arrived, we had done some online research and had a plan in place. Our Airbnb host Han kindly offered to stock our kitchen with some essentials to get us through the first couple of days. We also planned to use the Shuttle app (similar to GrubHub) for delivery from area restaurants and Gmarket.com for groceries. Upon our arrival at the apartment we found that Han indeed left us the staples that we requested as well as…

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    Peter Graham

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    How to Pack for Korea: The Wins and the Regrets

    June 27, 2021

    Korea Winter Trekking in a Nutshell: Seoul

    April 18, 2021

    Hate is a Virus: A Foreigner’s Perspective on the Pandemic in South Korea

    March 21, 2021
  • COVID travel,  The Counselor

    Quarantine: It’s day 8 of 15, but who’s counting?

    August 7, 2020 / 6 Comments

    It never occurred to me to start a blog at any other point my life. A few weeks ago, I joked with some colleagues in Philadelphia that I had no hobbies I could do while sitting still. That’s true at least if you don’t count reading, and even I, a voracious reader, was not excited about the prospect of sitting and reading for 2 full weeks of self-isolation. I know to some that might sound like the best thing ever, but the thought of that much stillness honestly sent me into a panic! Knowing that I would need to quarantine when we arrived in Seoul gave me a strong desire…

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    mledare

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    What is Chuseok? How We Spent Our Autumn Holiday

    October 31, 2020

    Korea Winter Trekking in a Nutshell: Outside Seoul

    April 25, 2021

    For better AND for worse: What’s the price of peace in Ihwa Mural Village?

    August 27, 2020
  • COVID travel,  The Counselor

    Adventure #2: How we traveled 6,700 miles for COVID tests (Part 2)

    August 5, 2020 / 1 Comment

    Part 1 of this post described our unsuccessful attempt to get tested for COVID-19 before leaving Philadelphia. What we found in Seoul is a completely different response system and a different set of priorities for managing the pandemic crisis. Here is the rest of our testing story, preceded by some background information I had fun researching. According to Business Insider, in early March the U.S. “had done fewer COVID-19 tests per capita than many other countries with large coronavirus outbreaks.” Conversely, by February 28, just a few weeks after identifying the first case of COVID-19 in South Korea, that country was able to conduct up to 15,000 tests per day.…

    read more
    mledare

    You May Also Like

    Korea Winter Trekking in a Nutshell: Seoul

    April 18, 2021

    What’s happening with COVID-19 in South Korea? The December Edition.

    December 12, 2020

    Old Korea: Buddhist Temple Stay at Gyeongju

    May 9, 2021
  • COVID travel,  The Counselor

    Adventure #2: How we traveled 6,700 miles for COVID tests (Part 1)

    August 3, 2020 / 1 Comment

    When we entered this year, heading to Seoul in the midst of a global pandemic was not on our list of things to do. Multiple times over the past several months, Peter and I looked at each other and said, “we’re crazy, right?” And we probably are. However, it’s not necessarily because we chose to live in South Korea during these COVID times. According to Worldometer, as of August 3, the United States is reporting 4,813,647 total cases of the novel coronavirus, about 26% of the cases in the world. By contrast, South Korea on this date is reporting 14,389 confirmed cases, about .0008% of cases worldwide. This despite the…

    read more
    mledare

    You May Also Like

    What is Seollal? How We Spent Our Lunar New Year

    April 11, 2021

    Quarantine: It’s day 8 of 15, but who’s counting?

    August 7, 2020

    Jeju Island: The Northeast Coast and the Diving Women

    February 21, 2021

Recent Posts

  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Hahoe Folk Village
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Songnisan National Park
  • Finding a New Normal: What We Miss Most about Korea

Recent Comments

  • Nancy on The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan – The Chemist and the Counselor on The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan
  • Rose on The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan – The Chemist and the Counselor on The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Hahoe Folk Village
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Songnisan National Park – The Chemist and the Counselor on The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Hahoe Folk Village

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