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The Chemist and the Counselor

A year of adventures in Korea

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Recent Posts

  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan October 31, 2021
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan October 17, 2021
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Hahoe Folk Village September 26, 2021
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Songnisan National Park September 12, 2021
  • Finding a New Normal: What We Miss Most about Korea September 5, 2021
  • Returning to “Normal”: Hitting the Easy Button on Stateside Life August 29, 2021
  • A Chemical Mystery: Navigating the Unpredictable Course of Research August 22, 2021
  • Food,  The Counselor,  Travel around Korea

    The Great Wall of… South Korea? Hwaseong Fortress

    February 14, 2021 / 2 Comments

    This is essentially one post in two parts. In this post: Hwaseong. In the last post: Namhansanseong. The Korean Peninsula’s strategic position between China and Japan has increased its risk of military invasion for centuries. Vestiges of this history remain in the form of protective fortress walls in Seoul and beyond, many of which are now maintained and utilized as hiking trails. The ease of accessing these trails, as well as their tendency to be well-maintained, have made them a go-to for our hiking adventures since we arrived in Seoul. In addition to trekking the Seoul city walls, we have visited Namhansanseong Fortress just outside of Seoul, and Hwaseong Fortress…

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    mledare

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    Jeju Island: Christmas Eve on the South Coast

    February 28, 2021

    Anmyeondo Island: Trekking on the Road of Sunset

    October 7, 2020

    Seoul from the middle ages to the space age

    August 22, 2020
  • Food,  Sites in Seoul,  The Counselor,  Travel around Korea

    The Great Wall of… South Korea? Namhansanseong Fortress

    February 7, 2021 / 1 Comment

    The Korean Peninsula’s strategic position between China and Japan has increased its risk of military invasion for centuries. Vestiges of this history remain in the form of protective fortress walls in Seoul and beyond, many of which are now maintained and utilized as hiking trails. The ease of accessing these trails, as well as their tendency to be well-maintained, have made them a go-to for our hiking adventures since we arrived in Seoul. In addition to trekking the Seoul city walls, we have visited Namhansanseong Fortress just outside of Seoul, and Hwaseong Fortress in Suwon. Each is worth the trip from the city and provided very different opportunities for exploration.…

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    mledare

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    Anmyeondo Island: Trekking on the Road of Sunset

    October 7, 2020

    The Great Wall of… South Korea? Hwaseong Fortress

    February 14, 2021

    How to Have a Cheap Date Night: Street Food for the Win!

    August 24, 2020
  • COVID travel,  Sites in Seoul,  The Counselor,  Travel around Korea

    Artful Seoul: More Sites in the City and Around (Part 2)

    January 24, 2021 / Comments Off on Artful Seoul: More Sites in the City and Around (Part 2)

    In this winter season, many museums and similar sites are closed due to the current coronavirus restrictions. The South Korean government has been pretty organized about how it sets restrictions when COVID numbers start to rise. Consequently, as soon as business re-open, we know we’d better get our visits in before they may be closed again! Fortunately, I was able to visit several art exhibits with friends before the current closures began. You may have read about my visits to the very cool exhibits at Museum SAN (Space, Art, Nature) and teamLab: LIFE in Part 1 of this post. As promised, here is Part 2 of our artful adventures in…

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    mledare

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    Seoraksan National Park: Best Adventures for the Whole Family

    December 3, 2020

    Jeju Island: The Northeast Coast and the Diving Women

    February 21, 2021

    Anmyeondo Island: A Walk Under the Trees

    October 11, 2020
  • COVID travel,  The Counselor,  Travel around Korea

    The Ultimate Day Tourist: Gapyeong Rail Park, Nami Island, and The Garden of Morning Calm

    January 10, 2021 / 5 Comments

    Some tourist traps are so compulsory to visit that you have to fall in, even if you know it’s a trap! The Gapyeong area northeast of Seoul is filled with such attractions. For anyone visiting South Korea for a short vacation, there’s probably no reason to prioritize visiting this area. However, if you stay in Seoul for any length of time, you’re unlikely to escape going at least once. It is a very photogenic area to visit in the fall, and we wished we’d been able to visit in October when the leaves were at their peak. We decided to visit three of the top Gapyeong attractions in one day,…

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    mledare

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    Top 10 Most Surprising Things About South Korea

    October 24, 2020

    Quarantine: It’s day 8 of 15, but who’s counting?

    August 7, 2020

    Adventure #2: How we traveled 6,700 miles for COVID tests (Part 2)

    August 5, 2020
  • Sites in Seoul,  The Counselor,  Travel around Korea

    Awesome Autumn Adventures in Bukhansan National Park

    November 14, 2020 / 2 Comments

    Autumn leaves, rocky trails, AND a giant golden Buddha? Sign me up! Bukhansan National Park is unusual in that Bukhansan (the southernmost mountain within the park) is technically within the city of Seoul. You can reach much of the park utilizing only the Seoul subway system. Perhaps because of this accessibility within a major metropolitan area, Bukhansan made the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s “Most Visited National Park per Unit Area.” We added to those numbers, visiting twice during October to appreciate one of the park’s other distinctives: one of the best places in Seoul to see the changing leaves. Knowing it would be really busy, we…

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    mledare

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    Walking to School Uphill Both Ways: Welcome to Gwanaksan

    October 3, 2020

    What is Chuseok? How We Spent Our Autumn Holiday

    October 31, 2020

    For better AND for worse: What’s the price of peace in Ihwa Mural Village?

    August 27, 2020
  • The Counselor,  Travel around Korea

    Paju Imjingak Peace Gondola, the DMZ, and a New Friend

    October 17, 2020 / 4 Comments

    Did you know that the Korean War has never officially ended? Before the onset of a global pandemic changed everything, many people who heard us talk about the possibility of going to South Korea inevitably asked, “Aren’t you scared of North Korea?” While we haven’t felt afraid, it is an unsettling feeling to live in a country that has existed in an uneasy armistice with its sister nation to the north for 70 years. Currently, the closest you can safely get to North Korea is to visit the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), and the closest such point to us is at Imjingak, about 50km north of Seoul. We were able…

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    mledare

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    Old Korea: Gyeongju and Yangdong Folk Village

    May 2, 2021

    How to Pack for Korea: The Wins and the Regrets

    June 27, 2021

    The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan

    October 31, 2021
  • COVID travel,  The Counselor,  Travel around Korea

    Anmyeondo Island: A Walk Under the Trees

    October 11, 2020 / 2 Comments

    For our first day in Anmyeondo, we explored the island’s beautiful beaches. On the second day, we wandered in some of its quiet green spaces. I was a little concerned that we had left almost a whole day to seeing the Anmyeondo Island Recreational Forest, as I couldn’t find much about it when researching before this trip. As far as I knew, it was going to be really lame and not worth seeing. This concern intensified when we couldn’t get a bus or a taxi from the hotel on Sunday morning and walked a very sunny 45 minutes to get there, partly along the side of a highway. Well, I…

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    mledare

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    Trail Challenges at Seoraksan National Park

    December 6, 2020

    Good Grief! What’s so Shocking about Culture Shock?

    January 31, 2021

    Quarantine: It’s day 8 of 15, but who’s counting?

    August 7, 2020
  • COVID travel,  Food,  The Counselor,  Travel around Korea

    Anmyeondo Island: Trekking on the Road of Sunset

    October 7, 2020 / Comments Off on Anmyeondo Island: Trekking on the Road of Sunset

    Exploring Seoul has nearly endless possibilities and will keep us occupied for a long time to come. However, we are also ready to spread our wings a little more and venture to some sites outside of the city. Our first trip outside of Seoul was a weekend visit to Anmyeondo Island on South Korea’s west coast, south of Seoul in Chungcheongnam-do Province. I found very little information about traveling to and within Anmyeondo, so this whole trip was a bit of a mystery all the way through. Our post is in two parts because given the dearth of online information about visiting the area, I am going to give more…

    read more
    mledare

    You May Also Like

    Jeju Island: The Northeast Coast and the Diving Women

    February 21, 2021

    The Ultimate Day Tourist: Gapyeong Rail Park, Nami Island, and The Garden of Morning Calm

    January 10, 2021

    Korea Winter Trekking in a Nutshell: Outside Seoul

    April 25, 2021

Recent Posts

  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Hahoe Folk Village
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Songnisan National Park
  • Finding a New Normal: What We Miss Most about Korea

Recent Comments

  • Nancy on The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Celebrating Buddha’s Birthday in Busan – The Chemist and the Counselor on The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan
  • Rose on The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Busan – The Chemist and the Counselor on The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Hahoe Folk Village
  • The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Songnisan National Park – The Chemist and the Counselor on The Last Korean Road Trip: Adventures in Hahoe Folk Village

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